When you’ve been doing something for three decades, you must be doing something right.

For at least 30 years, St. Ferdinand Parish fish frys have not only supported the parish, they’ve also been a source of unity for the community. It is also believed to be the first archdiocesan parish fish fry to feature drive-thru service.

Recollections vary, but some believe the fish fry started in 1991, while others say it goes back further. Some of its volunteers do go back nearly that long.

Mike McGovern, who chairs the event, has been involved for about three decades.

“This was one of the first fish frys, and it kept growing,” McGovern said.

St. Ferdinand started with cod and pollack, later adding perch and shrimp. The parish now offers baked tilapia, which McGovern said is very popular, as well.

Also available are clam chowder, vegetable soup, cheese pizza and nachos, along with beverages.

As to staffing, the chairman cited “a village.” Serving volunteers number between 20 and 30 weekly, with another 20 to 25 people helping elsewhere.

One thing the fish fry has nurtured is camaraderie. “We do other things together,” McGovern said. “We serve the food, sit down and make friends.”

Urszula Szaban, a volunteer since 2000, helps prepare the food.

“I enjoy just being with people. I made a lot of friends,” she said.

A native of Poland who came to the U.S. from Krakow in 1980, Szaban attributed the fish fry’s success to “a lot of people working very hard.”

She recalled an older couple who stayed long after most patrons had left because the couple just enjoyed watching others.

“People just like to be together,” Szaban said. “We want people to have a reasonably priced dinner and to be with people they know. People feel safe when they come with their family.”

McGovern estimated the first two fish frys this year drew more than 300 guests. The third week, March 10, which was School Alumni Night, was expected to draw 400, including a visit from Cardinal Cupich.

Violet Arceta of Skokie was seated at a table of nine Filipinos. Arceta, who came to the U.S. in 1980, said she liked St. Ferdinand’s meal for the “food and fellowship.”

In the kitchen, volunteers prepared and packaged meals for dining in or carryout. Outside the kitchen, Susan Malinowski heated and sliced pizza.

“This is a chance for people to get together and meet with people and have a good time,” she said, slicing more pizzas. “It’s a nonstop thing.”

She anticipated 25 to 30 pizzas being sold during each of the six fish fry nights.

Father Peter Gnoinski, St. Ferdinand’s pastor, walked through the school hall, welcoming guests.

“We have Filipinos, Poles, Irish, Italians, Latinos all here,” he said.

In a parish with 2,200 members and eight weekend Masses, Gnoinski said, people come to the Lenten dinners for “eating and meeting.” He added that various parish ministries, including the school and Knights of Columbus, assist with fish frys.

School Principal Erin Boyle Folino said the event builds community.

“This fish fry shows the community spirit,” Folino said. “It says that all ages and different groups can come together to help.”

Volunteer Arlene Torio, serving coffee, said, “There’s just a welcoming atmosphere. I meet people by volunteering, nurturing relationships and making more friends.”

Kelly Trujillo, an adult leader with the parish’s Boy Scout Troop 51, cited the unity in the community. “We’re all gathered as friends and family,” she said.

Charlotte Kaplan, who is not a parishioner, comes to the fish fry with four former coworkers at Resurrection Hospital.

“We’re all retired. We come here, sit down and we’re not rushed,” said Kaplan, trying the pizza. “I enjoy getting together with my friends.”

“I like the atmosphere,” Ana Lopez added.

Maria Figueroa and her daughter Metzli, 5, a kindergartner, distributed plastic utensils.

“I like to help the community and school,” the mother said, while her daughter enjoyed helping and seeing her friends.

Volunteer server Bianca Aguirre, 16, a junior at Our Lady of Tepeyac High School, said, “This is good experience to get ready for a job.”

Sharon Sasso, a newcomer to the parish, said she feels “very blessed, fulfilled and welcomed” at St. Ferdinand. Sasso, who was registering meal orders, had not been to church since high school. “I feel I’m living again,” she said.

Ken Presslak, who coordinates the drive-thu, anticipated 40 orders being filled that way. He and most of the other drive-thru staff have known each other for decades and they know the system.

“The volunteers are all friendly, cordial, and welcoming,” Presslak said. “It’s nice to get together for six weeks.”